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Old 10-10-2017, 02:12 PM   #501
Hotwire
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You can install the t-stat before you install the pump, 11 ft/lbs.

6 bolts hold the pump to the engine and 3 bolts for the tensioner.

Drain coolant, remove old pump, wire brush all the pump bolts to clean the threads, spray w/ brakleen to remove all leftover residue/grease/rust, let dry. Clean block surface using razorblades or whatever means you have at your disposal.

Use a small amount of teflon sealant on the threads of the bolts after cleaning them, they protrude into the water jacket, you may notice some of the bolts have rusted shanks from seepage.

Reinstall, pump bolts first pass tighten to 11 ft/lbs, final pass 22 ft/lbs. Install tensioner and bolts, starting w/ the lower bolt torque to 37 ft/lbs.
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Hot wiring is bad news.
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Old 10-10-2017, 03:26 PM   #502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotwire View Post
You can install the t-stat before you install the pump, 11 ft/lbs.

6 bolts hold the pump to the engine and 3 bolts for the tensioner.

Drain coolant, remove old pump, wire brush all the pump bolts to clean the threads, spray w/ brakleen to remove all leftover residue/grease/rust, let dry. Clean block surface using razorblades or whatever means you have at your disposal.

Use a small amount of teflon sealant on the threads of the bolts after cleaning them, they protrude into the water jacket, you may notice some of the bolts have rusted shanks from seepage.

Reinstall, pump bolts first pass tighten to 11 ft/lbs, final pass 22 ft/lbs. Install tensioner and bolts, starting w/ the lower bolt torque to 37 ft/lbs.
That doesn't sound bad at all.

Hoping to get it done tonight, but not sure how long it will take the damn thing to cool off before I can even touch it.
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Old 10-10-2017, 05:31 PM   #503
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Sooooo......upper radiator hose was collapsed when I came out to head home. I think that's a symptom of a bad radiator cap problem. Thoughts?
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Old 10-10-2017, 08:08 PM   #504
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Here is the block test I used......Took only a single pull of air to turn the fluid colors.

https://goo.gl/photos/GQWSJogF8CNJwFGg9
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Sooooo......upper radiator hose was collapsed when I came out to head home. I think that's a symptom of a bad radiator cap problem. Thoughts?
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Hot wiring is bad news.
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Old 10-11-2017, 06:42 AM   #505
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Well I get that the collapsed hose is an indication of air in the system. Not sure if it's coming from a head gasket or the leaking water pump (replaced last night). I would think I would have seen this before if it was just the head gasket.

Isn't the cap supposed to allow the overflow to "backfill" the system after it's bubbled out?

It's a cheap part, I'm gonna grab one anyway and see.
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Old 10-11-2017, 07:43 AM   #506
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Drive into work was entertaining. Still a giant bubble in there somewhere despite bleeding/cycling it twice last night and letting air out of the steam vent. Steady state cruise on the expressway was 188. Spikes to 220 at the exit ramp. Same story different day.

Sure wish money grew on trees
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Old 10-11-2017, 01:17 PM   #507
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Sure wish money grew on trees
Don't we all
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Old 10-11-2017, 01:46 PM   #508
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No collapsed hoses at lunch. Hopefully a few more burps of air and it'll be good to drive again.
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Old 10-12-2017, 07:07 AM   #509
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heat cycled and burped it twice last night. Still running around 200deg constant, and spiking into the 240's at stop signs and lights.

Beginning to think the leak was better than the bubble.

I hate cars.
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Old 10-12-2017, 06:22 PM   #510
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Does the air bleed hose run to the radiator on that? I had a truck a little while ago that I couldn't bleed no matter what. The nipple on the radiator that goes to the bleed hose was clogged with crud not allowing any flow through the hose. I had to use a pick to dig it out and clean it. Bled no problem after that.
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