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Old 04-02-2019, 11:14 AM   #461
static low 92
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Posted a for sale ad on my car yesterday for April fools, I don't think many were fooled. But I still had several inquiries lol.

Gonna, copy/paste. Just incase that day does come, might save me some time haha. quick reference.


1965 MALIBU WAGON

Engine: 1995
LT1, 4 bolt block, rebuilt short block 55k miles. Crane 210/224. Lift 479/518 LSA 112. Edelbrock RPM cnc heads w/1.6 crane full roller rockers, Edelbrock airgap intake, holley 58mm TB, MSD optispark, coil/wires. Aeromotive LT1 adjustable fuel regulator, Mid length headman headers, Dr gas X-pipe, Edelbrock stainless mufflers. Billet valve covers, color matched intake.

Trans: 4l60e
Fresh Kimbler build
Sonnax roller/balanced shell
OEM dual cage sprag
Sonnax Super hold 2-3 servo
Pinned pump spring
Sleeved input drum w/billet overrun piston
Custom Kimbler 3/4 clutch pack
Aluminum dual 3-4 acc piston
Billet 13 vein pump rotor
HD 2-3 shift valve
Truck pan
Trucool 40k cooler+ -6 AN lines
2400 stall

Rearend-
Fresh 12 bolt 500 miles
Auburn posi
Motive gear 3.42 gear set
Currie bearing kit
Jegs girdle diff cover
Moser bearing ends
Moser custom length axles (narrowed 2" per side)
Kore 3 brackets to run C5 vette brakes
Stainless braided hoses
All brackets Tig'd on and relocated inward

Suspension:
Front- UMI tubular upper/lower arms with Tall upper/lower ball joints, Hotchkis 2" drop springs, Hotchkis sway bar, UMI bumpsteer kit, new bearings/hubs to accomodate C5 brakes, stainless hoses, belltech shocks, Moog endlinks, replacement stock inner tie rods. quick ratio gear box.

Rear-Spohn spherical bearing adjustable upper arms, Spohn roto-joint adjustable lower arms, 2" drop springs, airlift helper bag kit.

General:
Car has Classic air, heat/ac underdash kit retaining factory controls, Ididit tilt column, Grant steering wheel, Aftermarket dash panel housing all Autometer muscle car series guages.
Kenwood bluetooth head unit, new Kicker 6.5 speakers all 4 doors. Floor of car inside and out are coated with Lizard skin, plus interior is entirely done in Mega Mat sound deadner. Power anteanna, Detroit speed mulit speed wiper setup. Replacement power booster/master cyl. Wilwood adjustable prop valve. Tanks INC fuel tank with tube style level sender, Walbro 255 pump, AN lines, KnN mesh style filter. New OPGI frontend- Bumper/grille/bezels/emblem. Frame boxed from kickup back to bumper to accomodate custom class 3 hidden hitch, 18x8 American racing torq thrust wheels plasti-dipped grey centers (full polish underneath). Rebuilt tailgate-new track felts/rubbers/ edge felts. New vent window seals, 20% tinted windows. rear 3 are static cling. Innovate wide band, 2" fiberglass cow hood, Misimoto aluminum radiator, Spal dual electric fans. Entire car is Painless wired. Retro belt aqua shoulder seat belts. All new door handles/window cranks. Borgeson joint at gear box

Car runs consistent 13.50's gets around an autocross track with authority. Gets lots of attention. Pile your family in it and cruise. I've built this car to be as reliable as possible while providing creature comforts of more modern cars.

$25k obo.
Serious inquiries only.

Last edited by static low 92; 05-08-2019 at 09:20 AM.
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Old 04-03-2019, 06:35 AM   #462
Hotwire
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Lol, I would have stroked seeing this in person..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeleton
Hot wiring is bad news.
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Old 04-06-2019, 10:48 AM   #463
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Lol, I would have stroked seeing this in person..
AAAAAAAAAAAAhahahahahaha.
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"Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body. But rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, alcohol drink in the other… your body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO-HOO what a ride!"
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Old 04-08-2019, 07:33 AM   #464
static low 92
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Tore my car apart on Thursday to fix/diagnose the oil leak. I assumed it was Opti seal.

I went ahead an reluctantly pulled the timing cover completely off to replace the crank seal and attempt to reseal oil pan too. at least 5 oil pan bolts were not tight at all.

And my oil leak was the w/p drive seal. I took time to strip the orange and black paint off cover. I just left it raw, figured it would develop another oil leak ill need to brake clean off... so why put paint back on it lol

Cleaned everything up nice, crank hub cleaned and painted, ended up pulling all the oil pan bolts to allow it to drop enough to get the cover back on, Probably ended up using 3 cans of brake clean on everything to get all oil off everything and dry. I over indulged on rtv on first 2" of pan gasket and bottom front cover... I really wanted to get it to hold fluids. The crank hub had 2 grooves worn in it you can feel with your finger nail, so I assume it will continue to give me some leak issues until I replace it. I installed all new seals into the cover and installed it.

Tore the w/p drive seal... but already having slathered everything in RTV I wasn't pulling cover back off. So had to go to parts store and buy another timing kit to get another seal. Dove into YouTube and found how to install the seal, using a marker cap, wish I would have known that seal was a bit*h 2 yrs ago when I did first one. It went on and looks to be correctly installed now.

If anyone is interested in the situation for that seal: at about 12 mins in, is the money.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfi4XAEOv9c

Got a new water pump, painted silver as usual, went ahead and drilled/tapped the weap hole and put a pipe plug in it... fu*k this leaking BS. I also pulled cap off opti and used some clear silicone on perimeter. The new seal I had put on not a month ago was rolled in 2 places even tho I used a tiny bit of RTV to hold the seal when I installed it. IDK how you get that not to happen, if it rolls it leaks.


I spend entire day Sunday reassembling, got it filled with fluids and running around 8pm, and it of course started storming as I was getting ready for test drive.

So had to wait till today after work to test drive. Fingers crossed car keeps majority of its fluids in now.

Last edited by static low 92; 04-08-2019 at 07:40 AM.
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Old 04-12-2019, 12:46 PM   #465
static low 92
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Developed an exhaust leak Monday, always a constant battle with this car. Found I lost a header bolt.

It had already done enough damage to gasket that just putting a bolt back in didn't seal it. So its always an ordeal to mess with these headers. Got it sealed back up, I'm sure its temporary. I feel like I really need to order a new set of headers since I cut the flanges on these has created a ton of issues for me.

While doing that, I noticed a nice arc of spark to frame. I been suspecting a misfire for along time. It was #8 wire got jambed between frame and AC hose. Looks like its been cut for quite some time. Hoping it helps my off idle stumble.

****ty part is its $150 set of wires, luckily local speed shop has a set of MSD on hand which is whats on there now. I should be able to report later tonight... maybe tomorrow
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Old 04-15-2019, 11:19 AM   #466
static low 92
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I replaced the passenger side bank of wires, used some wire loom for hopefully a little more protection, tried to be conscience of the routing this time.

Car has lost its off idle stumble its had for quite along time. I'm very happy with car right at moment.

I still have an oil leak at front of pan/lower timing cover. Which I fully expected. I liberally applied RTV in hopes to seal it best I could. But compared to what it was before. I'll take it



Got new rear tire installed ive been sitting on for over a month. Should have my new Spohn lower arms in by Wednesday and get those installed, the to-do list is getting marked off pretty good.
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Old 04-15-2019, 12:07 PM   #467
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Quote:
Originally Posted by static low 92 View Post
... The crank hub had 2 grooves worn in it you can feel with your finger nail, so I assume it will continue to give me some leak issues until I replace it. ....
Sorry I'm late to the party on this. I know it's not 100% fun pulling the crank hub, but you do have a cheap alternative to fix the leak:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/g...evrolet/camaro
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00 ZR2 Extended cab (8BenZR2/Angus), 4wd, Beater Extraordinaire
98 Habanero 2, 5.3L L33 V8 swap Click for project SOLD
64 Chevelle Malibu crew cab, 6.0L LQ4 / T56 V8 swap Click for project
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeleton
Hot wiring is bad news.
Teeleton
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Old 04-16-2019, 07:25 AM   #468
static low 92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotwire View Post
Sorry I'm late to the party on this. I know it's not 100% fun pulling the crank hub, but you do have a cheap alternative to fix the leak:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/g...evrolet/camaro
Yeah, I considered it.

Maybe should have gave it a shot. But I believe my leak is originating from the oil pan gasket. Best I can tell.. So far crank seal looks to be ok
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Old 05-07-2019, 12:29 PM   #469
static low 92
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Have I mentioned how much I LOVE cars... ugh.

My excitement about getting car dialed in was quickly kicked in the dick back to my normal reality.

Been prepping for Autocross event in Nashville TN for a while. I smoked a front tire driving on it low and not knowing, so trying to be cheap I found 2 super nice Dunlops used for $70, while the wheel was off I wanted to fix that wheel which was bent. It went up to wire day before I left before I got it back, took and got tires mounted. Got home and noticed a bubble in a sidewall....wasn't going to take that chance driving 300 miles each way that.

So I stole wheels off my S10 which I have a set of new Toyo on back in spring of 17 that have very little miles. Made it down at 12 for tech, had been raining all morning. So I got out and made 2 passes that afternoon that were HORRIBLE, the 225/40 fronts pushed bad, and I decided to make it a drift event... so Toyos are no Bueno for autocross.

Got some recognition from UMI guys since I had their stickers on my car. Talked to Ramey quite a bit while I was there. Cools guys. He posted pics on IG, asked to tag me. But I don't have IG/

Noticed a noise in rearend on trip down, it continued to get worse as I drove car around Nashville. I swapped a rear tire in hopes it was that issue. No luck, so only thing I could think was axle bearing taking a ****.

So I luckily had 2 friends that trailers cars to show, so I loaded my car up and drove a 48 chevy on 2000 S-10 chassis still all stock 4.3 back from Nashville. I bent **** out of one of his 20" coy front wheels on a giant pothole on trip, it actually flattened tire. So had to swap one of my billets on it on side of interstate to get home. And now I own him a wheel.

So I pulled car apart yesterday. Found axle is screwed. its flaked to hell, bearings look perfect still. Emailed Moser,

Their reply:
"The housing tube would be bent to cause that bearing to cut into the axle like that. I would recommend checking the housing for straightness with and alignment bar and rewelding the housing end on the tube. As far as the heat treat of the shaft, A stock axle would be approximately 45 Rc. We make our axles 50-55 Rc. I’ve never had an axle we’ve tested come back with a faulty heat treat. The heat treat process is all computer controlled. We’ve tested thousands of axles and not had a bad heat treat. I would be more than happy to test this bearing journal if you would like to send the axle in. I do not believe the contaminants in the oil cause the wear or both bearings would be like that. I appears the housing needs straightened and this needs a new axle."


So pulling the housing and gonna have it checked again by guy that straightened it. I'm betting its bent still. And having a hardness test today on axles. So those 2 things will give me the verdict. I imagine ill be eating another set of $400 axle and also bet car is down remainder of the month...

So not super thrilled about cars at moment. #sagacontinues
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Old 05-07-2019, 02:53 PM   #470
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Man, that's super unfortunate, we have all been there a few times.
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