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Old 09-14-2017, 02:27 PM   #11
bluex
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Well I was just about to look up that info because I can not get to the 2nd one down on the dr side. I can get a wrench on it but that is it. Can't turn it at all an even a reg socket won't fit on it before it hits the firewall. Guess I'll go pull the bumper an mounts.....
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Old 09-14-2017, 03:05 PM   #12
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An slightly 30 mins later they are finally out. Ugh....


For future info I don't think the ZR2 has any factory body lift. I still had to raise the body. I really really didn't want to but it took 30 mins an probably would have saved me a couple hours had I not been so stubborn
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'98 Silverado Z71 ECSB 5.7L/4L60E/3.73's

'02 Suburban 5.3L/4L60E/3.73's

'78 GMC Serria 1500 361/700R4/3.73

'00 Indigo Blue Xtreme 262/4L60E/3.42--SOLD
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Old 09-15-2017, 07:52 AM   #13
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It happens man, it's a little intimidating, but it's absolutely the easiest route I've found to get the job done, and I've had to do it several times over the years on 2nd gens..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeleton
Hot wiring is bad news.
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Old 09-16-2017, 08:27 PM   #14
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Finally got it out yesterday, it was really bad inside the engine with sludge. I also found a smashed nut in the bottom of the oil pan. It looks like one from a rod bolt but from what I could see they are still on the rods. I will look more in depth at it when I can get it on the stand instead of hanging from the hoist. For now I'm going to concentrate on getting the parts I need cleaned an on the "new" engine an getting it back in the truck. Then I'll figure out what exactly happened to this one.
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'98 Silverado Z71 ECSB 5.7L/4L60E/3.73's

'02 Suburban 5.3L/4L60E/3.73's

'78 GMC Serria 1500 361/700R4/3.73

'00 Indigo Blue Xtreme 262/4L60E/3.42--SOLD
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Old 09-21-2017, 05:45 PM   #15
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I won't ever do an engine or trans removal in a V6 S10 ever again without jacking the body off the frame a couple inches.
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Old 10-03-2017, 04:39 AM   #16
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Well its back in an running finally. Everything looks good so far but all I did was let it idle up to temp to top off coolant an rev it a little.

Only thing I'm not crazy about. I did the Hotwire oil cooler line fix. Got the same 1/2 hose listed in the thread an it was a loose fit on mine. One of the hoses I pulled off was marked 13/32. I'm worried to death one will blow off now. I guess I shouldn't really call it a loose fit it was just to big all together. I'm going to call the parker store in the morning an see what they have. I hate to do that over but I'd rather do that than toast another engine if one comes off.
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'98 Silverado Z71 ECSB 5.7L/4L60E/3.73's

'02 Suburban 5.3L/4L60E/3.73's

'78 GMC Serria 1500 361/700R4/3.73

'00 Indigo Blue Xtreme 262/4L60E/3.42--SOLD
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Old 10-03-2017, 06:41 AM   #17
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Sorry to hear it man. I've never had to deal with aftermarket hoses, cooler line post was under the assumption it was stock hoses. If you feel it's loose I would definitely change it. 7/16" would be closer to the 13/32".

As far as your hose clamps go, double up on them since you can't find wide clamps. Have them facing opposite directions and 180 degrees from one another. That way the screw section will be farthest from one another and doubled up will seal better.
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08 Hybrid Tahoe (Tin Foil) 2wd, 6.0, stock and very comfortable
11 Ford Edge (BlackBerry) 2wd V6, Limited, wife's
00 ZR2 Extended cab (8BenZR2/Angus), 4wd, Beater Extraordinaire
98 Habanero 2, 5.3L L33 V8 swap Click for project SOLD
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeleton
Hot wiring is bad news.
Teeleton
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