|03-22-2016, 09:05 PM||#1|
I'd rather be boating!!
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Georgetown, IN
Scorched Audi Harness
Here's a couple pictures to show the damage. My guess is that the center pin is used as a common ground amongst all the lights hence the problem with them all at the same time.
Bulb Holder scorched:
Any idea what would have caused this? How do I fix it?
Most importantly....How do I prevent it in the future??
Also, I checked the passenger side, it looks just fine. No problem at all.
*edit*....Pics working now???....if not use this link.....https://goo.gl/photos/wAmURt7SqjCurhmw8 ......*/edit*
Last edited by 2kwik4u; 03-23-2016 at 09:57 AM.
|03-23-2016, 06:43 AM||#2|
I HATE RED!
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Summerfield, NC
pics not working.
In any electrical system resistance = heat. If there was a bad or lose connection it would cause heat to build resulting in fried insulation / brittle copper. Based on your report and not seeing the pics I'm assuming there was a bad connection causing the problem. The 1157 or whatever number bulb they are now really pull some current.
08 Hybrid Tahoe (Tin Foil) 2wd, 6.0, stock and very comfortable
11 Ford Edge (BlackBerry) 2wd V6, Limited, wife's
00 ZR2 Extended cab (8BenZR2/Angus), 4wd, Beater Extraordinaire
98 Habanero 2, 5.3L L33 V8 swap Click for project SOLD
|03-23-2016, 08:22 AM||#3|
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Cambridge, Ontario
Fix connector(s), convert to LED bulbs for less current draw. Note: Not all LED bulb will work, you need the ones that are compatible with Audi CAN-BUS, ask me how I know.
Use VAG-COM to lower the current (brightness) of these particular bulbs. In 09 - Central Electronics you find the adaptation channels for your lighting as follows:
02-Brake Light Dimming - Mine was set to 22, and according to VAG-COM it has an upper limit of 40. I tried several different values thinking that it might make the brake lights brighter if I had a higher value. I even had my wife watch the brake lights (with my foot on the brake) as I changed values. She didn't notice a big change, but she noticed it getting brighter.
03-Tail Light Dimming - Again, mine was set well below the described upper limit. I didn't mess with this one as I don't mind how the tail lights look now.
04-Rear Fog Light Dimming - Once again, mine was set well below the listed upper limit. I increased mine to the upper limit.
05-DRL Dimming (Halogen) - Doesn't apply to our cars as we have the Bi-Xenons. There is a value of 92% intensity in there.
06-DRL Dimming (Bi-Xenon) - Mine was set at 92% intensity from the factory, but I don't ever use my DRLs. However, I do like the dimmed look when I run just my city lights so I changed the value from 92 to 60%, which made my DRLs dim down to 60% intensity. So, now I may actually run my DRLs since they are more dim.
07-DRL Fogs (Canada) - value for the intensity for Canadian DRLs, which are the Fog Lights.
One thing I did find interesting is that Channel 16, which is the Fog Light Cold Diagnosis is switchable on our cars (it was not switchable on my B7 A4). The Cold Diagnosis causes the system to test if there is a functioning bulb in the fog lights without turning the lights on, and when you disable this you don't get the warning if bulbs are burned out or missing from the fogs (ie DTM edition cars with no Fogs). I left my coding for this alone, but if someone wanted to remove their fogs, or potentially even replace their fogs with S6 LEDs, this could help avoid any issues requiring in-line resistors on that circuit. Not positive, though.
I'm guessing here, but when you changed your car to Euro lighting scheme maybe it bumped up the brightness % thus increasing your current draw on your harness / connectors.
83' S-10 Durango, 2.8 - Iron duke conversion, T5, Rotting away.
85' S-10 Hot Rod Project, 355, T56, HSR install comming soon. Thred
99' S-10 Summer driver, 4.3, Auto, Xtreme rims. Thred
Last edited by TerribleTrux; 03-23-2016 at 08:28 AM.
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