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Old 08-16-2017, 12:38 PM   #41
6SpeedBlazer
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I mean, if it works.
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Old 08-17-2017, 07:03 AM   #42
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Freshly rebuilt

https://flic.kr/p/XcvPu5
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Old 08-17-2017, 07:14 AM   #43
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Good job man!
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00 ZR2 Extended cab (8BenZR2/Angus), 4wd, Beater Extraordinaire
98 Habanero 2, 5.3L L33 V8 swap Click for project SOLD
64 Chevelle Malibu crew cab, 6.0L LQ4 / T56 V8 swap Click for project
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Hot wiring is bad news.
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Old 08-17-2017, 09:14 AM   #44
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I will be onto the rear axle in a few weeks. Going to add a true track
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Old 08-24-2017, 07:11 AM   #45
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well changed the diff fluid after ~400 miles.

small ammount of very fine metal shavings, nothing alarming. just the stuff you see from bearings and gears seating.

refilled with some royal purple and will let it ride.
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Old 08-24-2017, 07:26 AM   #46
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Ya'll are throwing down some miles on that poor thing! Glad to hear the diff is happy though.

I miss my truetrac, hoping the Eaton posi will make up for it. Be glad you're not changing gears, that crush sleeve is a beast.
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Hot wiring is bad news.
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Old 08-31-2017, 06:53 AM   #47
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i have put just over 11k miles on it since purchase.

that was the push to get another daily (for the girlfriend) so i could get my saturn back. truck gets 14-15mpg typically and 11ish when towing.

i had to do a new crush sleeve on the front diff. I made a tool (36" angle iron) that attaches to the yoke and then i used my big breaker bar to crush the sleeve and would do small ammounts then test pinion preload. it worked great.
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Old 12-15-2017, 06:52 AM   #48
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about to start a nice vacation from work. so i have some work lined up.

going to install some new braided SS lines on this truck to try and true up the brake pedal feel.

brakes are real spongy and need a lot of input to stop the vehicle. so im going to install new lines and bleed the system. then service the power steering/hydroboost fluid.

im going to give the pads and rotor a good once over. i may replace the rear pads and rotors, as well as upgrade to the GMT900 front pads rotors and calipers to give a bit more bite. I suspect half the problem is crappy parts the dealer installed to get it to pass inspection. he had to do pads and rotors all around and i bet went bottom of the barrel just like the hubs he had to install.
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Old 12-15-2017, 02:29 PM   #49
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I suspect half the problem is crappy parts the dealer installed to get it to pass inspection. he had to do pads and rotors all around and i bet went bottom of the barrel just like the hubs he had to install.
Guaranteed.
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Old 12-16-2017, 03:12 PM   #50
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whats everyones thoughs on deleting the oil cooler lines?

they are leaking more and more, starting to drip on the ground. my two thoughs are to either delete them, or cut out the rubber sections and install some braided SS lines to get rid of the rubber sections and crimps.
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