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Old 01-03-2008, 05:38 PM   #11
Badass_S10_2002
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Racing would be great...altho I doubt scca would let me auto-x it...It will be heading to the strip tho..It will see lots of mud tho as we've got a local track for that
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Old 01-03-2008, 10:32 PM   #12
llWood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Badass_S10_2002
Racing would be great...altho I doubt scca would let me auto-x it...It will be heading to the strip tho..It will see lots of mud tho as we've got a local track for that
Guess i should have looked at your location before i asked that, i didnt know if you were one of our desert runners, but beings your from GA i doubt it huh
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Old 01-04-2008, 06:51 PM   #13
Badass_S10_2002
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Originally Posted by llWood
Guess i should have looked at your location before i asked that, i didnt know if you were one of our desert runners, but beings your from GA i doubt it huh
Yeah I wish I lived out there..Closest thing we've got is dirt roads and beaches....Still a blast to go muddin in 2wd haulin ass past everyone else
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Old 04-18-2008, 01:58 AM   #14
Badass_S10_2002
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Updated pics
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Old 10-03-2009, 02:19 AM   #15
Barry James
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Just so everyone knows, the first post of this topic was written by me several
years ago and it seems to have been edited by someone other then me
so here is my writeup on 2wd lifting facts

All information in this thread is for educational purposes only

Lifting the front
There are two ways you can lift the front of your 2wd S-10.

(1) Spindles come in 3" & 3.5" lifting variations and are available for S-10 pick-ups and pre-98 Blazers

Spindles only change the height of your truck and they do not change the way it rides since you still use your stock coil springs.
With lifting spindles you need to purchase extended brake lines so that you don't pull your brake lines apart leaving you with no brakes. These are usually metal, braided lines for extra durability and a nice look. You do not need longer shocks with spindles however high performance shocks are recommended.

*98 and newer Blazers use a different hub/brakes and lift spindles will not work

In order to use lift spindles on the newer Blazers and Jimmys (98-05) you will have replace these parts.
1. AIM or Fabtech lift spindles
2. 98-05 S10 2wd pickup brake rotors
3. 98-05 S10 2wd pickup calipers and brake pads
4. 98-05 S10 2wd pickup Inner / Outer front wheel bearings w/ inner seals & outer caps
5. 98-05 S10 2wd pickup spindle washers, nuts
6. 98-05 S10 2wd pickup dust shields W/ ABS sensor
7. extended steel braided brake lines

Before I go on I would like to spend a moment on coil spring spacers. Spacers are dangerous to use on an S-10 because the springs are not flat on the ends, but rather the coil wind just kind of stops and a coil spring is made to fit into the lower control arm and spacer on the other hand will not conform to the spring or the lower control arm pocket leaving a large amount of stress on the end of the spring and possibly causing the spring to deform and cause the coil spring to pop-out and if you try to use a spacer on the top of the coil spring there is nothing to hold it into place but the weight of the truck. There are people who claim they have used coil spring spacers with no problem and these people have been very fortunate to have not experienced damage to there S-10s

(2) Coil Springs are a good way to lift your 2WD S-10, expect a firm to very stiff ride after installing lifted coil springs.

Lifted coil springs come in lengths ranging from 2"-3.5" and get their lift from an increased spring rate (most lifted coil springs are only slightly taller then stock springs) I have found that after a lifted coil spring settles (500-1000 miles) you can expect to lose 1/2"-3/4" of lift.Example: a 2" lifted coil spring will only give you 1 1/2" of lift after the coil spring settles.
Over the years i have used Moog or TRW 5662 & 5664 coil springs to lift my S10's 1 1/4" - 1 1/2" instead of the so-called 2" lift springs because the ride is better and they cost half the price of 2" lift springs

When using 3"- 3 1/2" lifted coil springs you must use aftermarket upper control arms to accommodate the 3"- 3 1/2" coil springs.

this requires cutting the upper control arm mounts and welding upper control arm gussets in place to help with alignment ability and wear on suspension components. The problem with lifting with 3" -3 1/2" lifted coil springs is that it puts higher angle on your ball-joints which may cause premature ball-joint wear. There are different methods that can be used to help lessen or slow the wear on your ball-joints. One is to re-mount the ball-joint to the so that the top surface of the ball-joint bolts to the lower surface to the upper control arm (sometimes called flipping the ball-joint) another method is ball-joint spacers, ball-joint spacers should only be used in extreme cases to correct severe ball-joint angles.
3" - 3 1/2" lifted coil springs are often very stiff and I've even seen upper control arm mounts tear apart at the weld because the coil springs were so stiff (this happened to me and others)
I personally don't recommend using 3" -3 1/2" lifted coil springs and upper control arms (short arm kit) to lift a 2WD S-10 because I've never seen a case were there was not some kind of problem or another when using this method to lift an S-10.


Long Travel kits (upper and lower control arms)

on the other hand is something I highly recommend because you correct ball-joint angels and gain extra travel lost when using lifted coil springs. Long Travel kits are often very expensive and installation should be left to the professional.
In my opinion, the best method when using lifted coil springs to lift a 2WD S-10 is to use 2" - 2 1/2" lifted coil springs (this will give you 1 1/4" -2" of lift) and flipping the upper ball-joints. This will give a firm (not stiff) ride and you will not be replacing ball-joints every other month.
Lifted coil springs can be used with lifted spindles for even more lift, longer shocks will be needed.




Lifting the Rear
There are 4 ways that you can lift the rear of you S-10

(1) Add-A-Leaf. What these do is basically add another leaf for your leaf pack. They are arched more than you stock leafs so it pulls your leafs into more of an arch...causing the lift. You can achieve 1.5"-2" of lift with these.

The positive side to these is if you tow or haul a lot of stuff with your truck because they add to the amount of stuff you can carry in your truck. Downfalls are that they will stiffen the ride in your truck. There are two different of add-a-leaf you can use on your S10, one is the short add-a-leaf that fits above your helper spring and the second is the long add-a-leaf that fits between your first and second spring on your spring pack. (It is said that the long add-a-leaf gives a better ride) new shocks recommended, i recommend Bilstein B46-1413 heavy duty shocks.

(2) Shackles. These are what connect the rear of your leafs to the frame. To achieve a desired lift you lengthen these twice the amount of lift you want since your lift is found in the center of your leafs but shackles are on the end. Most lift shackles will give you between 1.5"-2" of lift.

new shocks recommended, I recommend Bilstein B46-1413 heavy duty shocks.


(3) Leaf Spring Hangers. These connect to the front of the leaf spring and replace the stock leaf spring hangers and will give your S-10 2 1/2" of lift.

Leaf Spring hanger work best with lifted shackles and some people say it will mess with your driveline angles but it all depends on several factors that vary from truck to truck, i use this set-up on my S10 with stock shackles and i re-shimed the rear axel to correct the drivelive angle.
*note: longer shocks are nessesary, rear shocks from a ZR2 are perfect substitute and i recomend using Bilstein B46-1819 heavy duity shocks.

(4) Axel Flip-Kit. Because S-10 axles are positioned above our leaf springs you can "flip" the axle over to the underside providing 4.5-5" of lift.


Once again some people say it will mess with your driveline angles but it all depends on several factors that vary from truck to truck.
New shocks recommended, i recommend Bilstein B46-1413 heavy duty shocks.



Body Lifts
Lift the cab & body of your S-10 2"-3"

Body Lifts are the cheapest way to lift your S-10; by lifting the cab & body of your S-10 you gain extra room for bigger tires. Pros of body lifts include stock ride characteristics and a taller stance. Some people don't like body lifts because the frame is exposed, this can be corrected by installing Nurf Bars and Gap Guards. 2" body lifts are available for 84-04 S-10's and 3" body lifts are available 84-94 S10's and one company makes 3" body lifts for S-10's up to 97 and this kit can be modified to work on late model S-10's as well.



Summery
The most lift 2wd trucks can get is around 9.5" (spindles, coil springs, control arms and a body lift) which will give you enough room for 33" tires unless you go with a SAS or Hybrid then you can go even bigger

*special thanks to AcidBath666 for providing a photo of his 2wd S10 on 33's
__________________
1990 S10 Pick-up 4x2 with:
3" body lift, 3 1/2" Lift Spindles, Moog 5662 springs, 2 1/2" hangers,
Bilstein shocks, Posi. GM 4.30 gears & BFG 31/10.50/15's

Current project
1989 S10 Blazer Sport 4x4 with:
Rancho lift kit, Baja bumpers, Bilsteins shocks, ZR2 T-bars, BFG AT's 31/10.50/15's
on factory Outlaw 2 wheels, posi. Hi-flow cat and flowmaster 40 series muffler

Last edited by Barry James; 10-03-2009 at 02:27 AM.
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Old 11-23-2009, 06:49 PM   #16
Boosted Thrills
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who makes those 2.5" leaf spring hangers?
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