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Old 12-20-2016, 04:59 PM   #1
MPETE
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mounting options and choices

OK so I finally found a cheap used engine for my swap. But now that it's time for me to start buying parts, it seems like I have forgotten a lot of the info I used to know pretty readily.
basics: 96 ex cab 2wd 4.3 5spd.
I have a 96 L31 Vortec 5.7 to swap in.
I want to keep the transmission in it's existing location. I know 2.8 frame pads are mandatory, but what engine mounts should I use?

To keep A/C functional, what direction should I be going as far as radiator mount locations and engine driven fan vs. electric?
If elec. which one should I be using?

Keep in mind budget is VERY small so cost is a very big obstacle.
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Old 12-21-2016, 07:50 AM   #2
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Glad to hear you're diving in man!

I used JTR (Jags That Run) mounts on the lt1s, had current performance wiring on habanero.

Keeping trans in stock location and running mech fan is not possible. You'll have to mount everything in the forward position and run electric fan. The 350 is approximately 4.5" longer than the 4.3. That'll give you something to eyeball before pulling the v6.

I've got a set of ls1 fans in the shed, but you might need a thinner setup. I ran flexalites on the lt4 s10, po had a custom setup on the awd Jimmy, ls1 fans in my v6 trucks and habanero. Doing a quick Google search for electric fans it looks like Dorman is making a lot of factory replacement fans and they're priced just a hair more than junkyard runs..

Hate to say it but you'd prob get a lot of good info from the "other" site as it's a lot more active with v8 guys.
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Originally Posted by Teeleton
Hot wiring is bad news.
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Old 12-21-2016, 08:23 AM   #3
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I ran jtr mounts on my sbc swaps.

On my blazer i had the radiator forward mounted and ran flexalite 220 fans. It was still tight.
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Old 12-21-2016, 11:57 AM   #4
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Another option for fans are the V6 Explorer fans...clutch and all. They're about 1" thinner than an S10 fan
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Old 12-23-2016, 07:46 AM   #5
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I am also running the JTR engine mounts. Radiator is in the forward position (mounted inside the rad support) w/ flexalite dual e-fans.
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Old 12-23-2016, 11:19 PM   #6
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so I am reading up a little more. some on the "other" site, as well as the V8 S10 forum, and facebook. I even dug out my JTR manual that I've owned for probably 10 years now and I have been rereading that a bit. Unfortunately, I am a few years too late on going this direction because sooooo many people are going LS, and the ones who arent going LS, are going old school carbed, bare bones swap. No AC, no PS, and usually in a stripped out first gen engine bay. Just not a lot of current info on Vortec swaps. The basics of the Vortec swap are similar enough to the carbed swaps that the nuts and bolt info transfers over. But the electrical side and fuel delivery side are just different enough to require A LOT of digging and still not finding the answers I crave.
I think I am just gonna have to say screw the research and just start swapping and see what I run into.
Basically the reason why I want the trans in stock location is because I don't want to have to get a custom drive shaft, but it sounds like with the 2 piece shaft of the ex-cab there is enough give between the slip joint going into the trans and the slip joint at the carrier bearing, that I can move the engine back an inch, some say 1 1/4" and still be just fine. 1.25" gives me what they say I need for the mechanical fan. I am not 100% against an electric fan, I just like the fact that I don't have to worry about it. It just plain works.

About 99% sure I am going with the JTR mounts. they still seem like they are the go to place as far as the mounts are concerned.
Also, are you guys happier with the 4.3 rad or the famous C4 radiator that JTR swears by.


Hotwire Did I read that right? you ran a Current Performance harness? Of all people I would've expected you to tackle it yourself. I was already fairly sure I was gonna just spend the money on the CPW harness, but as simple as they say the wiring mods are for the Vortec I feel I could handle it. NOw I think I am even more likely to go with the CPW harness.
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Old 12-24-2016, 08:53 AM   #7
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I'm running a painless performance harness.... they made it REALLY easy.

Keep in mind that pushing back the engine cuts down on clearance at firewall... which is where lots of header flanges end up.
I have the 3 bolt traditional flanges, and if I don't have them twisted just right, they rattle on the firewall. My next set of headers won't be a 3 bolt flange... I never could reach all 3 bolts well and had CONSTANT leaks there.
Most will say to hammer back the firewall's pinch weld at least... and that whole edge. Your call on the line between beating on the truck, roughing up paint, and potential for rust later.

I have no idea where my engine ACTUALLY sits in comparison to swap mounts, because the fab guy I used welded flat plate on to extend the OEM mounting locations, then drilled that for the motor mounts.

In the grand scheme... driveshafts are CHEAP. Mine was less than $150 to have shortened and new u-joints pressed in. Closer to $100... but I'm high balling since i don't remember exactly, and markets vary.

No input on radiator... I've got a superior swap radiator thats hella-thick, but e-fans and the oem LT1 waterpump, which is quite shallow.

Make sure you look through 6SpeedBlazer's ZR2 threads
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Old 12-24-2016, 04:01 PM   #8
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I've always made my own harnesses.

Your vortec swap should just be 4 extra wires for the two extra injectors and your done (run 12v to the injectors then a control wire for each injector to ecm). Might have to swap around a wire or two, would have to look at ecm pinout. Everything else should plug right in. All your accessories are the same, all the sensors are the same, should be a no brainer.

I ran a Modine 84 Vette rad on the lt4 s10 with the flexalites, only time I saw the needle raise was when I was beating the hell out of it trying to wear out my buddies old tires. I had to cut the upper pass side of the shroud to clear the upper rad hose.

I ran Sanderson shorty headers, highly do NOT recommend them. As stated way too close to firewall, 3 bolt flange was tight, had to make special tools to get to #6 plug, #1 was way too close to primary, etc. I doubled up on Mr gasket ultra seal collector gaskets to seal mine up.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeleton
Hot wiring is bad news.
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Old 12-25-2016, 05:33 PM   #9
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A vortec 350 in place of a vortec v6 is a no brainer. No fuel system mods and minimal wiring mods.

V8 s10 swap headers are garbage.
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Old 12-26-2016, 08:56 PM   #10
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Jeff: the main reason I was even considering getting a new harness is because mine has been nicked, cut, melted, etc over the years.
I want to start fresh.
I misunderstood your statement above. I thought you were saying you ran Current Performance Wiring on Habanero, but re-reading it I see you were saying you had CPW mounts.
Flexalites? 210's?

It sounds like since I want reliable and easy swap, the best bet for now is to stick with my initial plan of running manifolds.

Mark: when you swapped the Vortec into the blazer, what did you use for exhaust mani/header?

As for the ZR2 swap thread, I didn't think it would help me much because its an LSx into a ZR2, both of which are drastically different than my 96 2wd and an old school SBC. Would there really be info in there that would help me?
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