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Old Yesterday, 09:12 AM   #421
Hotwire
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He's somewhat right. Copper wire has resistance, the longer the wire, the more resistance it will have, so if you have a long run with a large current draw you will lose power.. Larger gauge wire or wire with more / finer strands will have less resistance / flow more current so you don't lose power to heat (resistance to current flow).

If you're still using the stock wiring harness I would ditch it. Run new wires from dash to tailgate. If you wanted to go all out, get some decent quality speaker wire from a stereo shop. I'd say 12/14 gauge will work. Or trailer wiring harness (what I used to run from dash to taillights). Where is the dash switch getting power from? Are you still using the factory fuse box?

If so, the factory wiring from battery to dash goes through smaller gauge wire that crosses core support connects together at the horn relay, then has another connection to get through the firewall to the back of the fuse box. That's the main reason I junked all that and went w/ the silverado fuse box. I did use the factory firewall bulk head for headlights/turnsignals/horn/e-fan power. I pulled the bulkhead apart, cleaned up the connections with spray electronics cleaner/brakleen/brass brush. I then slight bent all the connections so they would make good contact when I put it all back together.

So if you're using the stock harness, you're losing power through all the connections to get to the dash.

As you said, make sure the ground is good, you need a solid closed loop for the electric motor to run properly. Good power, good ground. To test the motor, pull your silverado up to the back of the chevelle, run jumper cables from your truck to the the wiring of the window motor. Good ground, then touch positive to one power wire at a time, one will be up, the other down. If the window goes up and down you know that power loss is the problem. If the window struggles the electric motor has gone weak, might need a good cleaning / brushes to get it back up to snuff.

*EDIT* I looked back at your pic to get wire colors for you to hit - yellow = ground, brown w/ white stripe = 1 power, light blue = other power. BUT in looking at the pic I already see a partial mistake, look at the gauge of the original wires coming out of the window motor, then look at the smaller wire that's been attached to it. That's power loss right there.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeleton
Hot wiring is bad news.
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Old Yesterday, 10:21 AM   #422
static low 92
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So from best I can tell, entire car is rewired with the painless wiring. With exception of ends being cut off and rewired to new harness...

So I need to double check some stuff like that, having a drop in gauge wire. I really hope I don't have to pull a new run of wire front to back. That would be a huge PITA, but if I did it, id probably over kill and use some 12gauge.

Also need to look at possible the spade connectors not getting good grip on pins in motor/ and or a ****ty crimp to wire. Which is easy fix

And the motor was a new reman PO installed a week before I bought car, so its around 3 yr old. Unlikely it is weak.

Last edited by static low 92; Yesterday at 10:33 AM.
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Old Yesterday, 10:57 AM   #423
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Sounds like you're on the right path man. Make sure the bolt that the ground eyelet is on is free of paint, it might be insulating the metal and not getting a good connection. You could throw star washers on both sides of the ground eyelet and call it good, what I would do. I think the only other problem is getting ground from the tailgate to the body. Hinges, latches, etc "should" provide a return path for the current but I'd rather have a wire braid or something to never have an interruption due to a bump, vibration, humidity, etc.

I recently went through this getting my wipers and blower motor running. GM liked to skimp on the grounding mechanisms of these systems, they left metal bare and assumed assembly / fasteners would ground things out. With new production/reman units everything is coated to prevent rust so the old ground paths don't work. I could probably kick over a mack truck with my wipers now and blower motor would balloon passenger's skirt.
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Quote:
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Hot wiring is bad news.
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Old Yesterday, 11:04 AM   #424
static low 92
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Quote:
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blower motor would balloon passenger's skirt.
You get my old stuff? I can't remember.

Did you replace motor with new
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Old Yesterday, 11:12 AM   #425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by static low 92 View Post
You get my old stuff? I can't remember.

Did you replace motor with new
I got your passenger footwell vent because mine was melted due to fire at some time before I purchased it (still owe you for the great kindness). The blower motor is a new piece from Napa.
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00 ZR2 Extended cab (8BenZR2/Angus), 4wd, Beater Extraordinaire
98 Habanero 2, 5.3L L33 V8 swap Click for project SOLD
64 Chevelle Malibu crew cab, 6.0L LQ4 / T56 V8 swap Click for project
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Originally Posted by Teeleton
Hot wiring is bad news.
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Old Yesterday, 11:34 AM   #426
static low 92
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I got your passenger footwell vent because mine was melted due to fire at some time before I purchased it (still owe you for the great kindness). The blower motor is a new piece from Napa.
I Couldn't remember if you got my stock heater box or not. It might still be in basement in pile of parts lol
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Old Yesterday, 09:20 PM   #427
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if you can get a volt meter in there see what the drop is across it while its running.
solid ground and fat wires like Jeff said.
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Old Today, 07:20 AM   #428
Hotwire
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Quote:
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if you can get a volt meter in there see what the drop is across it while its running.
solid ground and fat wires like Jeff said.
^^^trust the wise man from teh sky.
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00 ZR2 Extended cab (8BenZR2/Angus), 4wd, Beater Extraordinaire
98 Habanero 2, 5.3L L33 V8 swap Click for project SOLD
64 Chevelle Malibu crew cab, 6.0L LQ4 / T56 V8 swap Click for project
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Hot wiring is bad news.
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