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Old 01-17-2017, 08:49 AM   #21
static low 92
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So whats the game plan.

Keep this a running project? start doing interior/suspension/brakes. While building the drivetrain... Then swap it in a yr or 2?

Keeping the paint I assume?
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Old 01-17-2017, 09:53 AM   #22
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Man, at this point, I have absolutely no frigging clue. Flip a quarter maybe? I'm struggling with direction. I think I'm going to just poke a stick at the 305/glide and see what it's health is, that will help me determine direction. It's not burning oil and fires up good, throttle response could be improved. I've had possibly 3 full hours of hands on with it at this point, ya'll guessing what's in the interior would be good as mine right now. It's not going down the road until I replace the brake hoses and inspect everything.

I think suspension is highest on the list right now. You can move the tire/suspension back and forth about an inch or 2 due to the a-arm bushings being non-existent. Shock bushings look like a marshmallow that got dropped and is sitting in the bottom of the fire. I was 2 seconds away from ordering polys and offset cross shafts (ton of shims on a-arms now) when I thought, this money would be better invested.

FRONT

I'm wanting tubular a-arms, really want adjustable as I'm done with shims, but haven't found the "right" set yet. Adam's pushing delrin / heim joints, not sure I want to go that hardcore just yet, this is going to get some miles on it, but also don't want the poly squeak. Saw summitracing now offers needle bearing bushings, might look into that a little more. Don't even know what's available as far as spindles / springs is concerned. Coilovers, eh, don't care about them one way or the other, I know they're nice, but not sure I'd make full use of them. I know the geometry is crap, will improve it with whatever I purchase, this is going to stick like the blazer if not better. I don't even know what kind of brakes are on it but jeez do they work. I would like to carry them over for the time being if I get lowering spindles, don't think I'd have enough travel w/ just cut springs. I don't even know what size the rims are, but if you look @ the coil pictures you can see you can't even get your finger between the caliper and the rim.

REAR

Haven't got to the rear to see what's going on back there yet, not . It will have boxed control arms with adjustability so I can dial in pinion angle, especially w/ the new drivetrain combo. I know for sure I will have top adjustable arms, really debating on whether bottom adjustable will be needed. It would help with centering the tire in the wheel well. I know it came factory w/ 8.2" rear, that will prob hang around until something falls in my lap, not sure what hardware is in it at this point. Car was a stripper from the factory, original V8/auto car with only option was rear radio antenna so I doubt there's anything good.

Want to pull the frame and really clean it up, look it over and do mods. End all would be boxing the frame in as it's small c-channel that was not meant for twisties or torque. Frame rails are wavy, not sure from being stressed, wreck, factory, what. Laser cut pieces for boxing as well as "tubbing" pieces are readily available, but would prob make my own boxing plates. This would mean brake/fuel line re-route, but that's no big deal. I will be fitting some meats under this thing, initially wanted to put the remaining SS rims I have in the shed on it, but not really solid on it. They would be painted a light charcoal metallic / gm rally slight greenish grey (gunmetal) if so. I'm sure it'd require spacers which don't bother me too much.

I started out wanting to just do suspension and engine/trans and just rat rod it, but it's morphing into a little bit of everything. I don't think I have any interior panels, headlight switch pulled out in my hand when testing lights, wires are atrocious (best word I could come up with), no weatherstripping anywhere, etc. It's a lot to add up, the prices on parts aren't horrible, but it all adds up. Not many 4 door part cars around with pieces I need in decent shape. Wife already mentioned mold and dust, which means I have to up my game on the interior.

In the end it's going to be 100% functional, looks will be last barring above mentioned items, it will stick, it will have people looking when I fire it up, it will go, and it'll be rowdy. Right now I've got to spend time figuring out what I need, what I can get local from part houses and what needs to be ordered, and determine if I can depend on what's motoring it for the time being. That'll arrange the priority of decisions and put me on track.

Mikey I had to look up Mike Holmes, lol, was happy to know he wasn't related to John.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeleton
Hot wiring is bad news.
Teeleton
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Old 01-17-2017, 10:19 AM   #23
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Also paint will stay. It's an ok 60 footer. There's bubbles coming up on the bottom of the rear door skins, around the drip rails, and there's a decent amount of paint/bondo missing from the trunk lid, but I'll get to it at some point.
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98 Habanero 2, 5.3L L33 V8 swap Click for project SOLD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeleton
Hot wiring is bad news.
Teeleton
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Old 01-17-2017, 10:33 AM   #24
static low 92
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Here is the tough part. Goddamn snow ball effect... like everything.

My personal vote is get you minimum safety items to drive it addressed/ brakes. Some wiring/shocks. Clean interior to point it isn't gross... and drive it. That keeps motivation fresh.
To that effect, I believe my stock arms have decent bushings, if you would use them to get it on road till you buy good stuff. They're your sfor shipping.

My issue was when I took my car apart to do brake hoses. That turned into EVERYTHING. and I bought items without enough research time and that sort of bit me in ass...

I would do some SPC adjustable uppers, it helps with future header clearance on top of they are just badass. If I had to do mine over, id take my time put together the build of what parts I wanted, purchase them all and do entire sections of projects at a time. For instance entire front end (big sway bars/control arms/springs/spindles/brakes/etc)

Last edited by static low 92; 01-17-2017 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 01-17-2017, 10:46 AM   #25
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Quote:
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Mikey I had to look up Mike Holmes, lol, was happy to know he wasn't related to John.
No relation to John.....thank god!

He has the same attitude about homes as you do about cars. Fix it right, the first time, and you don't have to worry about it again in the future. Such a great mentality to have over all things "built"

Gotta say, the car isn't my cup of tea (but you knew that), but sounds like a neat project none-the-less. I'll throw a vote in there to simply say, make it road trip driveable and track day reliable before you go for all out performance, and I think you'll get the most smiles per dollar that way!
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Old 01-17-2017, 02:42 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by static low 92 View Post
Here is the tough part. Goddamn snow ball effect... like everything.

My personal vote is get you minimum safety items to drive it addressed/ brakes. Some wiring/shocks. Clean interior to point it isn't gross... and drive it. That keeps motivation fresh.
To that effect, I believe my stock arms have decent bushings, if you would use them to get it on road till you buy good stuff. They're your sfor shipping.

My issue was when I took my car apart to do brake hoses. That turned into EVERYTHING. and I bought items without enough research time and that sort of bit me in ass...

I would do some SPC adjustable uppers, it helps with future header clearance on top of they are just badass. If I had to do mine over, id take my time put together the build of what parts I wanted, purchase them all and do entire sections of projects at a time. For instance entire front end (big sway bars/control arms/springs/spindles/brakes/etc)
I appreciate the offer Greg! I will keep this thing as mobile as I can, you know I hate jackstand city. For you or Adam, if I was to get SPC uppers, what balljoints? Normal or tall? Have no clue what spindle/brake/etc setup I have, will prob look and get decoded before making that decision/answering question. Pretty sure this thing is going to take on a Christine presence w/ bass ackwards acquisitions and installations..

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2kwik4u View Post
No relation to John.....thank god!

He has the same attitude about homes as you do about cars. Fix it right, the first time, and you don't have to worry about it again in the future. Such a great mentality to have over all things "built"

Gotta say, the car isn't my cup of tea (but you knew that), but sounds like a neat project none-the-less. I'll throw a vote in there to simply say, make it road trip driveable and track day reliable before you go for all out performance, and I think you'll get the most smiles per dollar that way!
That's about the direction I'm going with right now. Working on safety, then reliability, then upgrades. But with Greg's comment, the snowball affect is already happening. Keep on catching myself on searchtempest looking up seats. Think I know the ones I'm going for, might stop by the yard tomorrow and see if I can pick a set up along w/ Rob's brake brackets.
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00 ZR2 Extended cab (8BenZR2/Angus), 4wd, Beater Extraordinaire
98 Habanero 2, 5.3L L33 V8 swap Click for project SOLD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeleton
Hot wiring is bad news.
Teeleton
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Old 01-17-2017, 05:38 PM   #27
static low 92
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Quote:
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I appreciate the offer Greg! I will keep this thing as mobile as I can, you know I hate jackstand city. For you or Adam, if I was to get SPC uppers, what balljoints? Normal or tall? Have no clue what spindle/brake/etc setup I have, will prob look and get decoded before making that decision/answering question. Pretty sure this thing is going to take on a Christine presence w/ bass ackwards acquisitions and installations..
.
Well, I wish I could tell you for sure, but I haven't researched the SPC stuff enough to know. I believe that there are upper arms that are made with more of a curve/and or dropped balljoint mount plate to simulate a tall balljoint condition. I bought the chineseium cheap arms that I know for a fact are standard stuff, so i'll be using a howe or proforged tall upper ball joint.

#EDIT- Looking at what SC&C offers as kits, the SPC looks like you will run a tall ball joint with their arm

I found an article somewhere I think digging through a chevelle forum that was specifically addressed every shortcoming of Chevelle suspension and how/what options were to fix it. I just dug around real quick and couldn't find it. Wish I would have saved it. anyway, take a look at SC&C stuff too. the article was written by a guru there.

http://scandc.com/new/node/735

Last edited by static low 92; 01-17-2017 at 05:49 PM.
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Old 01-17-2017, 11:35 PM   #28
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Preciate the thoughts. Think I've narrowed it down to spc uppers and summit racing lowers. I'm waiting to hear back if they're made in China or not. Will have to run normal ball joints as the car has 14" rims right now, no room. Changing ball joints in the future will not be a problem. Will also get better springs, shocks, then start addressing the rear.

I do have some nests in the interior and ants. That's getting addressed very soon.

Here's a driver's seat shot



Need to find the mfg of these synthetic hangers, they're crap!



Car has same disc brake setup Adam had, they came off 69/70 chevelle. It's a popular upgrade from drums.

Drivers side slotted rotor, one broken stud, one lug finger tight, 2 different size nuts..



On top of the lug nut fun, check out the bearing action on this bad boy! Pass side shows just as much play. I'm extremely glad I didn't try to take this down the road.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8k...w?usp=drivesdk

Passenger



I'm fortunate enough to have found a car that was meticulously maintained. There's a grease zerk in there I'm assuming.



Wondered why it had a high idle



This one shows a couple.. red wire going into the firewall through the ungrommeted hole is straight off the battery. It's normal to loop plug wires around your master, right? Check out the shock bushing and stack of shims, and you can just make out the o2 sensor in the bottom of the log (in between 3 & 5 plug wires).

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•Jeff•
00 ZR2 Extended cab (8BenZR2/Angus), 4wd, Beater Extraordinaire
98 Habanero 2, 5.3L L33 V8 swap Click for project SOLD
64 Chevelle Malibu crew cab, 6.0L LQ4 / T56 V8 swap Click for project
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeleton
Hot wiring is bad news.
Teeleton

Last edited by Hotwire; 01-18-2017 at 05:42 AM.
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Old 01-18-2017, 06:35 AM   #29
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And that sir is why I don't want a classic anything. My 10yr old SUV has enough grime/rust to keep me satisfied for eternity.

I'm digging the "vintage" (or is it "authentic") seat cover. Should be able to get some good cash from that if you can find a hipster in need of a couch!
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Old 01-18-2017, 08:50 AM   #30
static low 92
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I applaud your motivation.

The older I get, the less I have any desire to tackle a project of that magnitude lol.
Hell, I have had to do much much more "fixes/udgrades" on my car than I anticipated doing.
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