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Old 10-03-2015, 01:25 AM   #31
LT1Dime
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Also sprayed the valve covers with black wrinkle paint. I wasn't sure about it at first, but now I love it.





Ahh, that looks a little better. Note that the bolt holes were drilled and tapped so this block was roller ready. I was worried at first because it didn't look like they were but nope, that was just the oil buildup hiding the holes!



Considering how terrible the oil buildup was, I'm amazed at how little carbon buildup there is. My guess is my "hammer down" driving style has blown most of it out during the last 5 years.

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88 S10 LT1/4L60E swap project
76 Chevy K5 LT1, NV4500, 37's, 5.13's, 3 inch lift, fender trimming, Eaton HO72 rear w/Detroit no spin

Last edited by LT1Dime; 10-03-2015 at 01:29 AM.
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Old 10-03-2015, 01:40 AM   #32
LT1Dime
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The new bumpstick.



Cam and new single roller timing chain installed. Heads set in place but not torqued down.





Used roller lifters installed after being soaked in Mobil 1 for a few days.



Lifter dogbones, retainer, and pushrods installed.



We're getting there.



Rockers installed also. Notice the 4X crank reluctor wheel. More on that in a moment...

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88 S10 LT1/4L60E swap project
76 Chevy K5 LT1, NV4500, 37's, 5.13's, 3 inch lift, fender trimming, Eaton HO72 rear w/Detroit no spin

Last edited by LT1Dime; 10-03-2015 at 01:43 AM.
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Old 10-03-2015, 01:53 AM   #33
LT1Dime
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New plastic Vortec timing cover installed. This is just planning for the future. There is a plastic plug bolted in where the sensor will go. Also, the Vortec balancer must be used as the snout is thinner to accomodate the thickness of the crank reluctor.





New high flow aluminum water pump from ebay installed. Even the impeller is aluminum which means less weight to spin. It sounded like a quality unit and they had great feedback but it was cheap so...I have found some great deals on ebay and also learned the truth in the phrase "you get what you pay for," a time or two. We will see.



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88 S10 LT1/4L60E swap project
76 Chevy K5 LT1, NV4500, 37's, 5.13's, 3 inch lift, fender trimming, Eaton HO72 rear w/Detroit no spin
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Old 10-03-2015, 02:03 AM   #34
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Intake installed.



Ultimate TBI mods for more CFM. These should be especially effective since I'm running the 4.9 Caddy intake duct and have the factory choke collar removed. The left is obviously the only one modified at this point. A good shot of how much of a difference it makes.





Left throttle shaft thinned down.





Done!



With injector spacer installed.

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88 S10 LT1/4L60E swap project
76 Chevy K5 LT1, NV4500, 37's, 5.13's, 3 inch lift, fender trimming, Eaton HO72 rear w/Detroit no spin

Last edited by LT1Dime; 10-03-2015 at 02:15 AM.
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Old 10-03-2015, 02:30 AM   #35
LT1Dime
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Little sidetrack to the engine work. While the radiator was out for the cam swap, I fixed a problem that has been plaguing me for a long time now.

When I swapped the motor in from the Burb, I also nabbed the radiator and swapped it in because it was MUCH heavier duty than the original for the K5 and I had plenty of room to fit it.

The lower brackets I made were insufficient. I guess that I thought the factory parts were over-engineered! I had already fixed the left side but here's what I had on the right:



Because I didn't box in the end, the nipple on the rubber pad broke off.



Here's the solution for that part:



And the boxing for the end.





It's good that I don't make my living as a welder! These are nice and strong, but certainly not a work of art.







There we go, much better.



More updates to come!
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88 S10 LT1/4L60E swap project
76 Chevy K5 LT1, NV4500, 37's, 5.13's, 3 inch lift, fender trimming, Eaton HO72 rear w/Detroit no spin
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Old 10-04-2015, 08:44 AM   #36
Hotwire
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Great progress Caleb! You've got the same Stevie Wonder welder I used!

Can't wait to see how it runs with the mods, should have you jumping ditches quicker. You change out the oil pump when you gasketed the pan?
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00 ZR2 Extended cab (8BenZR2/Angus), 4wd, Beater Extraordinaire
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Originally Posted by Teeleton
Hot wiring is bad news.
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Old 10-04-2015, 07:30 PM   #37
LT1Dime
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotwire View Post
Great progress Caleb! You've got the same Stevie Wonder welder I used!

Can't wait to see how it runs with the mods, should have you jumping ditches quicker. You change out the oil pump when you gasketed the pan?
Haha Stevie Wonder, sounds about right!

No sir, I left well enough alone. Since nothing has killed this engine yet, I'm starting to think that nothing can!
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88 S10 LT1/4L60E swap project
76 Chevy K5 LT1, NV4500, 37's, 5.13's, 3 inch lift, fender trimming, Eaton HO72 rear w/Detroit no spin
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Old 07-23-2016, 04:32 PM   #38
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Alright, this thread is again in bad need of an update. I also need to snap you guys some more pictures. Here we go...

The heads cam swap is finished and has been for a long time. I've struggled with misfires to varying degrees since the swap. They're mostly worked out at this point. The only time it happens is in the upper RPM's if I hammer down on it before it gets completely up to operating temp, so I'm leaving well enough alone for now.

How much did the swap help? I don't have the dyno numbers yet, but it runs MUCH better than before. Good enough that my tired old 4L60E is slipping pretty significantly on the 1-2 shift. The upper RPM HP is where I can really tell a difference. My bottom end is still strong, it just doesn't die out as quickly now.

Something strange that I've yet to figure out is why it has a power surge around 3,000-3,200 (can't remember exactly where it hits). Once it hits this surge, it stays strong till redline. Any thoughts on this one?
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88 S10 LT1/4L60E swap project
76 Chevy K5 LT1, NV4500, 37's, 5.13's, 3 inch lift, fender trimming, Eaton HO72 rear w/Detroit no spin
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Old 07-23-2016, 05:14 PM   #39
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For anyone that's kept up with Adam's S10 thread, you may already know that the K5 is currently out of commission. The problem- a broken wire right near the PCM. It developed an intermittent problem that got worse, and worse, until now I can't get it to run right at all.

I'm pretty sure its a broken wire or maybe even a bad connection on the pin for the PCM because disturbing this area is what would start/stop the problem. It had gotten bad before at one point over the winter so I tried to isolate the problem wire, but failed. Once I failed on the diagnosis, I parked it. Then we had a snow storm so I pulled the PCM out of its holder and ziptied it in a position where everything was working. It ran flawlessly like this for months, but now it's up to its old tricks.

When it happened again, I said forget it. I'll just go ahead with the TPI/411 swap. Not because it couldn't be fixed, but because I was already planning this upgrade, so why waste time on a setup I'm getting rid of anyway?

Going to the 411 means changing the torque converter to get lockup to work correctly. The way I understand it, I have a on/off lockup converter and the 411 uses the newer pulse width modulated style lockup. Ever since I've owned the Blazer, I've wanted it to be a manual tranny. The best option of course is the NV4500 and this was my plan instead of the converter upgrade. I want to hang a 32 spline NP205 off the back of the 4500. Although this is a great setup, we're talking about a lot of time and money here.

That brings me to where I'm at now. I've been planning on loading the time and money into the K5 since it's my off road fun machine, snowmobile, and cool daily driver. But Adam got me thinking in a different direction with his comment the other day. I love my K5 and I'm never going to get rid of it, but at SOME POINT I need to get my act together and finish my S10, or it's never going to happen.

I'll be starting a separate thread on the S10 later, but it hasn't been a running driving vehicle for between 10-11 years now. With the resources I have from the generous members of this forum, I might be switching gears soon to get the S10 on the road.

My current thoughts are to get the K5 wiring issue fixed to have it back on the road. I might on a little help from Hotwire for this part if he is able and willing. (Jeff, I'll probably be hitting you up soon to see if you can help.) Replace the rear springs of the K5 with 64" springs from the rear of a 88+ half ton Chevy. Move 52" springs from the back to the front, and scrap the front lift springs. This will help me off road, but will also smooth out the ride which is what I'm after for daily driving right now. Get the steering geometry corrected so I can turn my wheels lock to lock. (You can imagine how frustrating this problem has been while trying to swing into parking spaces!)

At that point, I'll be ready to sell the little Accord I'm driving currently. It's only a thousand dollar car, but those funds will help get the S10 going. Any thoughts?
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88 S10 LT1/4L60E swap project
76 Chevy K5 LT1, NV4500, 37's, 5.13's, 3 inch lift, fender trimming, Eaton HO72 rear w/Detroit no spin
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Old 07-23-2016, 06:32 PM   #40
LT1Dime
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Although I don't have the completed under hood shots for you guys yet, here are a couple pics.

Here is the K5 in its element:


The gettaway car for our wedding about 4 and 1/2 years ago:


Taking the dogs for a spin:


It's hard to believe this guy is 150 lbs now:
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88 S10 LT1/4L60E swap project
76 Chevy K5 LT1, NV4500, 37's, 5.13's, 3 inch lift, fender trimming, Eaton HO72 rear w/Detroit no spin
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